Bangladeshi Adventures

Over the last two weeks, which has felt like years, I have travelled into the most exotic and amazing locations Bangladesh has to offer. From the coastal waters of Cox's Bazar to the intoxicatingly lush tea estates of Srimangal to the chaotic hustle and bustle of New Market, the flood of visuals and new sensations has been such a rush that sometimes I feel like a might pass out from overstimulation. These excursions are afforded on the weekends, which in Bangladesh are Friday/Saturday and have really added another dimension to the Grameen experience are unforgettably unique.

Of course, I couldn't have journeyed to the fringes of Bangladesh without some truly special people. Through a series of impossibly improbable coincidences, I've become quite close to a particular group of interns. Throughout this strangeness and acclimation into seemingly another planet, the relationships we've forged have become quite strong and will hopefully stand the test of time and space. This "family" comprises a richly diverse set of ideas, educational backgrounds and and perspectives. Working alongside them has been nothing less than supremely gratifying.

My work at Grameen is winding down as I head into my final week. During the past week, I've spent time visiting sister operations and observing the different subsidiary companies that constitute "social businesses." Social business, in its essential form has existed for quite sometime, but the concept was sharpened and made scalable through efforts of Dr. Yunus and the Yunus Centre. In definition, social businesses are driven by cause and positive change for worldly problems. In such operations, investors/owners can gradually recoup their money invested, but cannot take any dividend beyond that point. Therefore the purpose of such an investment is strictly to achieve one or more social objectives through the efforts of the company, no personal gain is desired by the investors. The company must cover all costs and make profit (albeit not always maximizing profit), at the same time achieve the social objective, such as, healthcare for the poor, housing for the poor, financial services for the poor, nutrition for malnourished children (Grameen Danone), providing safe drinking water, introducing renewable energy (Grameen Shakti), etc. The impact of the business on people or environment, rather the amount of profit made in a given period measures the success of social business. Sustainability of the company indicates that it is running as a business.

To give this brief description some perspective, I visited Grameen Danone last Tuesday. Founded in 2006, with the social objective of bringing nutrition and fortification to malnourished and deficient rural villages, Grameen Danone has been operating at loss for since its inception. Even amidst negative profits every quarter, investors are still pouring funds and considering expanding the company's operations into other locations within Bangladesh. This "social responsibility" goes against the conventional, and selfish wisdom about maximizing profits and fattening purses that represent a ancient pillar in modern economics. The investors at Danone will only recoup their initial investment, because dividends, as Dr. Yunus has proven, need not only take monetary form. And because it's a business, which expands through innovation and aims for sustainability, the potential for creating tangible change is much greater than philanthropy and charities. Charities, however noble in intentions, are limited by the very nature of donations, which create dependency and are shortlived, at least when compared to a social business with a similar objective.

This concept speaks so warmly, that I suggest many western nations, especially the U.S., grab a pen and paper and take some serious notes.


- Louis

Time Flies

First off, let me apologize for the nature of this post. The last prior week has been filled with adventure/misadventure, obstacles, overwhelming amounts of rice and memorable experiences. I've enjoyed my time immensely so far in Bangladesh and the knowledge Grameen has disseminated.. And besides the heat, I'm becoming quite familiar with the Dhaka cityscape and perhaps may even consider it comfortable... at times. Also, the charity extended by curious Bangladeshis has given me more confidence navigating the city's surreality and has given the experience greater meaning. It hasn't even been three weeks and Bangladesh has already secured a special, cherished place in my heart.

Anyways, with that brief and cliche preface taken care of, I guess I can expound on the previous week's developments in succinct detail.

Since I last wrote, I spent four days/three nights at a Grameen Branch in Feni. For administrative efficiency, Grameen has divided its loaning operations into tiered levels starting with the poorest borrowers. Grameen's borrowers are segmented together in groups of 5-7 and each group given some democratic autonomy. Groups report to centers for loan disbursals and repayments. Center meetings, which are completed twice a day, are basically institutional formalities, but nonetheless quite useful for giving the borrowers a feeling of belonging and support. After centers, the next level is a branch. Branches coordinate center meetings and handle borrower documentation and accounting procedures. What transpired at the branch was the hardest four days of my life, but perhaps the most rewarding and eye-opening as well.

After a long, nightmarish journey to the branch through Bangladesh's notoriously dangerous and unpredictable traffic, we arrived in Feni dazed and tired. My companions, Giamma from Italy, Asif from Bangladesh who finished his studies in public policy at Bocconi University and our translator. The branch's accommodations definitely gave me tactile dose of perspective. The branch was equipped very humbly to better emulate the living conditions of the people using its financial services (the borrowers). Coming from western standards and a tempur-pedic mattress, this transition was obviously somewhat difficult. The wooden planks for beds will forever haunt my dreams, the stifling humidity turned every evening into a sweat-filled affair and the electricity frequently turned off for hours at end, leaving Giamma, Asif and I in a terribly uncomfortable predicament. The meals consisted of simple rice and dhal (lentil soup) and were consumed with bottled water (arsenic and cyanide free, huzzah!) But however difficult the experience was, understanding the Grameen system made everything worth it. We observed, from a "worm's eye view" exactly how Grameen affects the poor and gives them potential for marked improvements in their welfare and financial security. We talked to borrowers, visited their homes, sat in on center meetings, met Area and Zonal managers, and gained truly invaluable insight into the foundational principles of Grameen: providing financial services to the poorest of the poor without collateral. In our freetime we explored surrounding operations and travelled to Feni to visit the Zonal manager, but other than that, we had a TON of freetime. Fortunately, Asif purchased a playing cards, which were used tirelessly during the night.

I learned much and can honestly say that I understand the Grameen system on a more acute level. Throughout our observations, I did encounter some concerns and reservations about Grameen's policies, but that discussion is better discoursed at another time.

Anyways, the reality of being halfway around the wold is finally settling in. I miss nearly all aspects of being home and my family especially, but regardless my spirits still remain high. I will aim to post more frequently this coming week. Tomorrow a large contingent of interns will visit Grameen Knitwear and later meet the man himself, Dr. Mohammad Yunus!

Click on following photos to enlarge. Ciao!

Dhaka... again.

So far, exploring the city and understanding the lives of the Bangladeshi people has been an incredibly humbling experience. One can read about the country and its inhabitants in books, but once you really live among this reality, it truly begins to set in. The fresh perspective Bangladesh has given me, is amazing. The sights and sounds will ring in my ears for years to come. I don't really know what to say anymore. Grameen has also had a positive effect on my time here. I'm learning the impact the Grameen Bank has among the poorest of the poor. It's all so wonderful. I'm at a loss for words. I wish I could articulate more, but these experiences will ferment with time into something that will last me for the rest of my life.

So to keep it brief let me recap some short anecdotes.

1. ALWAYS travel with VISA and not Mastercard. I went through Hell trying to withdraw funds from ATMs.
2. Break the ice with the locals and you gain their trust and possibly their respect. We played a simple hand-game with some children and they loved it.
3. Keep in touch with family.
4. Store loose currency in safe places.
5. I'm running out of clean pants. I only brought two and shorts are forbidden in the Bank.


This Sunday, the interns are going on a 5-day excursion to a village branch. This will give me a real look at how Grameen affects the lives of its borrowers. I am excited, but also quite nervous. I don't know what to expect. It's all been such an adventure.

Sorry for the brief post, but I'm finding it difficult to select the best words. After the overnight trip, I will write in full detail about the experience.
Also mother, you need not worry, I am in good health and in good spirits.

Love,

Louis

Enter Grameen Bank

So far Dhaka has been a surreal experience, one that I find difficult to describe. The rush of emotions, sensations and imagery is intoxicating. As I learn more about the city and its inhabitants I gain more confidence with my surroundings and with myself. I still can't believe I'm halfway around the world in one of the poorest places on Earth. I'm so grateful for this opportunity to learn about the Grameen system firsthand and the Bangladeshi culture. To say that "I'm not in Kansas anymore" is an understatement. So without further adieu, let me briefly recap what has transpired. I feel like I could write for days, but for the sake of your patience I'll keep things short and possibly sweet.

My room at the Grand Prince.

August 2nd (my first day): I arrived at the Grameen Bank's headquarters around 9:30am wild-eyed and somewhat apprehensive. I didn't know what to expect, who I would encounter, and frankly where I was. When I entered the International Program department I was received by my coordinator who had me fill out some paperwork and documentation. After the formality I was suddenly whisked away into Jannat's head office (one of the first females employed by the bank during its inception). Each intern must gain approval by the Ministry of State, and for some reason my approval was pending because my visa and position were in conflict. I sat with her and brainstormed alternative words for "internship," which was being dropped by the bank altogether in favor of the phrase. "Student Learning Program." Jannat then had me comb the entire website for that word, print out my findings and highlight. It was pretty cool working alongside a high ranking member of Grameen and something i didn't expect to do on my first day.

After my work with Jannat was completed she sent me back to the rest of the interns to watch several videos and case studies of the Grameen Generalized System. My internship group is amazingly diverse and cultured. Most are from Europe (France, Spain, Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Belgium) and a few from Asia (China, Japan). I'm the only American in my core group of 20 interns. It's something I'll overcome eventually as interest in America is quite low among my peers and sadly no Russians :/.

I spoke with my coordinator about some personal goals of mine and how to achieve the most out of my internship outside of the basic requirements and program structure. I told him the following:
1. I would like to better understand the bank's processes through a "worm's eye view" i.e. field visits and borrow interaction (interpreter required).
2. Spend some time understanding the Branch system.
3. Apply my knowledge of English to help with the Trust and certain clerical work.
After our meeting I was dismissed and went back to the hotel for some a late lunch and tea.

That's all I can afford for now. Later in the week when my schedule moderates, I'll write more. The phone situation will be fixed soon. Don't worry mom, I'm doing fine and my spirits are at an all time high.


- Louis

Dhaka

I arrived at the Dhaka airport around noon. After waiting in line for several hours to pass immigration I walked outside and my glasses immediately fogged up. The humidity was unreal. Then a swarm of taxi drivers descended on me. Amidst the chaos, I was grabbed up by one of them and whisked away towards the city. What I saw during my trip was incredible, but unsettling. Click on any photo to enlarge.



Traffic was a jarring experience. With seemingly no stoplights or any other form of regulation, cars darted in out and out like the three-man weave.



The visible signs of a poverty stricken nation begin to set in...







That's all for now. It's difficult uploading photos using the current setup, but i'll aim to as frequently as I can.