Time Flies

First off, let me apologize for the nature of this post. The last prior week has been filled with adventure/misadventure, obstacles, overwhelming amounts of rice and memorable experiences. I've enjoyed my time immensely so far in Bangladesh and the knowledge Grameen has disseminated.. And besides the heat, I'm becoming quite familiar with the Dhaka cityscape and perhaps may even consider it comfortable... at times. Also, the charity extended by curious Bangladeshis has given me more confidence navigating the city's surreality and has given the experience greater meaning. It hasn't even been three weeks and Bangladesh has already secured a special, cherished place in my heart.

Anyways, with that brief and cliche preface taken care of, I guess I can expound on the previous week's developments in succinct detail.

Since I last wrote, I spent four days/three nights at a Grameen Branch in Feni. For administrative efficiency, Grameen has divided its loaning operations into tiered levels starting with the poorest borrowers. Grameen's borrowers are segmented together in groups of 5-7 and each group given some democratic autonomy. Groups report to centers for loan disbursals and repayments. Center meetings, which are completed twice a day, are basically institutional formalities, but nonetheless quite useful for giving the borrowers a feeling of belonging and support. After centers, the next level is a branch. Branches coordinate center meetings and handle borrower documentation and accounting procedures. What transpired at the branch was the hardest four days of my life, but perhaps the most rewarding and eye-opening as well.

After a long, nightmarish journey to the branch through Bangladesh's notoriously dangerous and unpredictable traffic, we arrived in Feni dazed and tired. My companions, Giamma from Italy, Asif from Bangladesh who finished his studies in public policy at Bocconi University and our translator. The branch's accommodations definitely gave me tactile dose of perspective. The branch was equipped very humbly to better emulate the living conditions of the people using its financial services (the borrowers). Coming from western standards and a tempur-pedic mattress, this transition was obviously somewhat difficult. The wooden planks for beds will forever haunt my dreams, the stifling humidity turned every evening into a sweat-filled affair and the electricity frequently turned off for hours at end, leaving Giamma, Asif and I in a terribly uncomfortable predicament. The meals consisted of simple rice and dhal (lentil soup) and were consumed with bottled water (arsenic and cyanide free, huzzah!) But however difficult the experience was, understanding the Grameen system made everything worth it. We observed, from a "worm's eye view" exactly how Grameen affects the poor and gives them potential for marked improvements in their welfare and financial security. We talked to borrowers, visited their homes, sat in on center meetings, met Area and Zonal managers, and gained truly invaluable insight into the foundational principles of Grameen: providing financial services to the poorest of the poor without collateral. In our freetime we explored surrounding operations and travelled to Feni to visit the Zonal manager, but other than that, we had a TON of freetime. Fortunately, Asif purchased a playing cards, which were used tirelessly during the night.

I learned much and can honestly say that I understand the Grameen system on a more acute level. Throughout our observations, I did encounter some concerns and reservations about Grameen's policies, but that discussion is better discoursed at another time.

Anyways, the reality of being halfway around the wold is finally settling in. I miss nearly all aspects of being home and my family especially, but regardless my spirits still remain high. I will aim to post more frequently this coming week. Tomorrow a large contingent of interns will visit Grameen Knitwear and later meet the man himself, Dr. Mohammad Yunus!

Click on following photos to enlarge. Ciao!